Showing posts with label Indonesia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Indonesia. Show all posts

Friday, October 1

i say...


I was recently approached to write an article for the Jakarta Post on hichhiking...whether they print it or not is another story...but here is what I said....


1) How does hitchhiking in Indonesia compare to other countries/places?

Well, honestly, long highways seem the same no matter what country you travel in. To me a journey seems subject to the state of mind of the traveller than anything else. In Indonesia, I noticed friendliness and more rural territory, maybe because of this people are more open to accepting a roadside travel companion. Everywhere people were generous and enthusiastic about teaching language and sharing songs and knowledge. Unfortunately, the roads highlighted our trip in Sumatra! On much of the coastal highways, bone jarring potholes appeared around every corner. Trucks and cars progress through the countryside much slower and I spent many sleepless nights in the cab of a truck bounced around like a pinball.


2) Why do you choose to hitchhike over taking other transport?

After travelling for a long time, I became frustrated with the callous way travel is generally approached. I got off the bus. Literally. I started walking. I walked almost 300 kilometres and along the way people offered me lifts, rides or even doubles on their bicycle. Now I’ve hitchhiked in 8 different countries, exchanged conversations with hundreds of people and learned pieces of 6 languages. I’ve become hooked on this idea of ‘humane’ transport because hitchhiking offers real human contact. It’s an exercise in real life experience. Real people. Real travel. When I hitchhike I open myself up to possibilities, genuine interactions and generosity, and usually remove money from the equation. I hitchhike both because it’s free and because it’s freedom.


3) What kind of people do you usually get rides from?

Absolutely everyone! Old and young, from different countries and from different backgrounds. I've found it's easier to stop trucks and with private cars it seems men are more likely to stop than women. In countries where it is rare to hitchhike, the question everyone asks is why I choose to travel this way. So my brother and I adapted the way we explained our presence on the highway and tell people we are participating in a social experiment… in human kindness. And it’s really like that. The more people you meet, the more you see how diverse but similar we are and how absolutely anyone can stop to help a stranger. And even if you can’t stop, an apologetic wave goes a long way to making a girl feel better!

4) Tell me about the best ride you've ever gotten?

I’ve ended up in many wonderful places with interesting characters. A recording studio in Bengkulu, a shishkebab BBQ on a beach with Iranian students, a wedding party in the mountains, and all along the way people went out of their way to share their culture and experiences. But one time I hitched from Sumatra to Java, on a ferry! My friend Charlie and I spent hours speaking broken bahasa and sharing Ayam Goreng with the drivers. Aboard, we whizzed into the executive lounge complete with live band and spent the night playing guitar and relaxing on comfortable lounges. We got a ride with the band and a place to sleep till the next day. Patiently teaching traditional songs like Kopi Dandut and helped us to find the highway. The people were generous and genuine and it was the very best part about arriving in Java.

5) What are your favourite things about hitchhiking? Least favourite?

Hitchhiking is exhilarating. I am constantly surprised, amazed and humbled by the open-hearted kindness of strangers. Moving through the world this way has changed the way I view the world. I can never be convinced by the media into believing we should be afraid of other people, this first hand experience has led me to believe we should open our selves and our hearts even more to people and we'll find we reap the trust that we sow. The least favorite aspect of this form of travel is long, hot highways and my own terrible sense of direction! I once hitchhiked for three hours from Penang, Malaysia unknowingly in a very, very big circle, only to end up at a very familiar road, with a very, very familiar bridge!

6) Tell me about hitchhiking as a woman!

Trust and confidence is key and your intuition is worth more than you can imagine. I've never understood how good I was at assessing people until I began hitchhiking. As far as being a female hitchhiker, I haven’t found my experience differs much to my brother’s or other male friends. Needless to say, it’s easier hitchhiking in pairs, as a single female there have been times the conversation veered uncomfortably towards my marital status. It’s important to be confident and maintain friendly conversation but be ready to divert it if it becomes too personal. I assess drivers carefully and find getting rides at gas stations allow me more time to speak to drivers before accepting a lift. So far, all my experiences have been very positive.

7) What have you learned from hitchhiking?

Hitchhiking is an exercise in personality development. Moving through the world this way has made me more aware of people, to trust myself implicitly, manage my relationships, divert/change/adapt my conversation skills and to be more humble (when faced with great generosity or when being turned down ride after ride). I’ve learned it’s not money or possessions which provide lasting satisfaction, its human experience and sharing our collective stories. We can communicate no matter what our backgrounds, races or culture, we just have to slow our engine, open our doors and give it a try!

Sunday, June 13

Street Kids of Yogyakarta

I've already posted about Jalan Malioboro, Yogyakarta. It's the major tourist destination in the city, full of bars and cafes, stalls and shops a colorful and fun place to be..but there is another side of Malioboro street, and a darker side of Jogjakarta. The street kids of Jogja are everywhere, sleeping in doorways, carrying shoe shine boxes, playing music and walking the main streets of the city.

What kind of system could create such an abundance of homeless children!???


The boys at the Nitiprayan House are an example of
kids. being let down by traditional family or the system they have banded together and created something out of nothing. Victims of the country's development issues and corruption within the highest part of the system. In Java a whole community of pedicab drivers, bus drivers, shop keepers, stall holders help these kids to survive and give them a sense of community I've never felt before elsewhere. Rather than depend upon one person, the kids become close to the whole community,. It provides a real sense of family and helps give these kids and young adults a sense of control over their own lives.

One day I was surprised on the bus, we stopped in the hot sun to wait for two buskers to finish their performance and walk up the aisle collecting loose change. I asked Santo if the bus drivers purposefully waited until the boys finished their song before driving on..he said yes, in Jogja everyone takes care of the street boys. I was surprised, in Australia, you would never see a bus full of people waiting in an unairconditioned bus in the hot sun for this type of charity..

The Family of GIRLI was created by mas (brother) Didid in 1982 when he saw a young boy having sex with an old prositute with a crowd howling and cheering around them. He put aside his college education and went to live on the streets to earn the trust and love of these boys and provide a stable role model and organised them to take care of each other. Now instead of committing crimes and falling further like the marginalised of other countries and cities, these Yogya street boys make a stable living and a home on Malioboro Street.

A Home
A main goal now for GIRLI is to rent a house in the slums by the river near to Jalan Malioboro for these kids to live in where they can learn what it means to have a "home", to trust and care for others, to bathe each day, and sleep in peace rather than face the potential dangers of the streets each night. But this too is officially against government regulations. People with no identity and no residency identification can not live in any of the strictly monitored neighborhoods. Government regulations leave no room at all for exceptions. So how can these children have any hope when from all angles they are confronted by regulations that victimize them even further?

The solution is to create a "nation within a nation", the People's Republic of GIRLI, or rather the Extended Family of GIRLI. Anyone left identity-less and homeless by the labyrinthine regulations imposed by the central Indonesian government is welcome to join GIRLI. There are many who have answered this call. In a rather cynical response to their imposed identity-less-ness, GIRLI also issue their own identity cards. Unity, support, and mostly, an identity, have created real pride for them. GIRLI is growing in strength and in voice.

Please click here for the amazing, full story...and visit Gila Kites to see what the bigger boys are creating now!


Thursday, June 3

MILAS - Vegetarian Restaurant Jogjakarta

When in Jogja eat good food for a good cause. This is exactly the type of place Anna and I have envisioned in our visions of the past. A beautiful creation by the beautiful Ebby of Jogja created some 20 years ago. Milas stands a a gorgeous reminder that the good things in life (while costing a little more) are worth it!

The restaurant helps train local
youth from low
socio-economic backgrounds in organic farming, cookery and other skills. Milas grows a large portion of its own vegetables and runs out of a gorgeous place in Jogja. Visit, the food isamazing, the vibe is beautiful and the surroundings make you feel as though you are in an island paradise!!

Anna, let's get cracking, there are wonderful things to be made :) hehe

Where:Jl. Prawirotaman IV, Yogyakarta
Open breaky, lunch and dinner!













Open Space Open Mind

When I first arrived at the Jogja house, the boys were busy preparing for an art and music exhibition named, Open Space - Open Mind, to be held at the house. Promoting the work of local artist Imam B Rastanagara and other artists like Beong and Bedes.

Imam's works are bright and colorful creations with bold strokes, almost a celebration intermingled with darker themes of homelessness, poverty and marginalization.
Imam's artworks deal with life on the streets, prostitution, drugs, mental issues and jail.

On one canvas he writes a story about a prostitute caught by police and demanded to pay a bribe. She laments her position in life and how if she had the money she would simply buy some penicillin...instead of having to pay the bribe.

Another of his artworks talks about mental illness and the Asian tendency to ignore slightly malfunctioning members of the family. Mental illness is misunderstood to the uneducated, here to the point where they tie or lock them in a corner of the house. Discarding family. Discarding love.

The artwork was excellent. Soul work. Soul expression.
Traditional musicians, violin, and tabla brought Imam's works to life , literally making music from art. Taking the text, poems and dialogues from the corners of the artwork as a basis for an experimental set..it was excellent!

Click to view larger..




There was an eclectic mix of experimental art bands, dj's, rock bands and reggae bands. A great vibe and mixture of dread heads, punks, and activists..a good mix of enthusiastic, motivated youth from Jogja. The event was described as having a 'Temporary Autonomous Zone' style...hehe, whatever that means..but it was great..and all in my own backyard!



And me, well I sampled the local art, local sugar wine :) and danced my night away!

Check out Omah Gelap (the dark house)
R1 Nitiprayan Rd
Jogjakarta

Friday, May 21

Beach Life - Pagandaran Indonesia

I'm at the beach, I'm at the beach! again...

So, I threw in all plans to head to Bali..couldn't handle seeing the superficiality of tourism. Even glimpses of it turn my belly. Charlie heard whispers of a nice beach and so it's beach life for me..
.. strong seas, crystal blue..good surf

Charlie and I live tribal style on sandy shores, we bought a frypan for 30, 000 Rp at the local market from a mean looking fat woman and cooked delicious vege dinners over driftwood fires, slept on a straw mat on a beach with the most amazing sunsets

There's all sorts of reggae in this town..
and many gifts..free showers, kind attentions, free food and teas and coffees where ever we go..life's a beach...

orange sunset was magic
lying on our backs singing silly songs
cocococococonut..charlie you cracked me the hell up!
i feel satisfaction, imagine
life daily this blissfilled, sunfilled smiley place
dirtyfeetsandinmyvagina
life on
the beach

(yeah, life on the beach is not as romantic as it seems)

Wednesday, May 19

Jogja Boys & Malioboro Street

Charlie and I headed to the famous tourist strip, Malioboro Street. Walking..barefoot..Charlie lost his shoes on the first day and hasn't worn any since!

This street is crammed with traditional Javanese artworks, clothes, accessories, sandals it's
the centre of tourist district in Yogyakarta. You can get around on the 'becak', a three wheel pedal powered bicycle cart or the 'dokar' a horse drawn carriage and check out the Bering Harjo market.

We wandered the street, ate constantly and listened to local busking boys 'ngamen', moving from food vendor to shops, to traffic lights playing small guitars or ukulele for money. These boys are everywhere!

I spotted an interesting character drinking wine on the side of the road, peacefully watching the world go by. His batik shirt and dreadlocks in a city of grey concrete. With his friends we drank sugar wine until evening. Jogja is an art city, where Jakarta is better known for it's music, but no matter to me.

We've ended up staying at the boys country house outside of the city.
They have a goat, a bunch of ducks and chickens and a playful puppy. The house and cafe has lots of brown dreaded boys creating things..making lanterns for their outdoor exhibition. Always lots of do. I'm making jewellery, painting lanterns, cutting material, drinking wine, cooking food, cleaning up and we all sleep in a big room under a bamboo roof.

The boys, building, creating and making their way through the day!


Parangtritis Beach Shack Love

Imam is an old man...well, not so old..but you couldn't tell. His dark skin gleams with health, his eyes alert and concentrated, his posture strong. His thick dreadlocks are wrapped around his head like a turban and he wears traditional Javanese cloths.

I listen to him, he's talking about the heart..telling me when I am in Indonesia, I need to be fully HERE. My head, my heart and my soul need to
be fully present. When I am in Australia, sama sama..and he's right..being here and now..all important..

Imam's bamboo beach house is right on the edge of Parangtritis beach, with strong beautiful waves and amazing sunsets. There are dunes, kids, kites, coconuts, magic mushrooms and amazing storms! Charlie and I swam in the ocean during a huge one.

The whole earth went black in the middle of the day, the sun disappeared, the land disappeared in the heavy rain. Cracks of thunder bursting my eardrums, lightning crackled all around us. Sometimes you disobey your instincts to have an incredible experience.

Long days, hot days, mostly wet days. Swimming every single day, baths from the well - no wonder people here are strong..and clean. Waterfall washing almost every other day. Horse rides in a mushroom haze, poking around cow pats for golden surprises! sleepy, colorful daytime dreaming..Kite flying, rolling on the dunes, sugar wine and toast in the afternoon sun under palm trees of coconuts and good friends to share love with!

Thursday, May 13

Hitchedy Hitch - Jogjakarta

Charlie and I have made it to the cool, wet streets of Jogjakarta. We flew through Sumatra at such a pace. The last week of travelling has been constant and we are happy to have arrived..somewhere, and it's time to have a change of pace...

We left Malaysia at Port Dickson (stopping to enjoy an Iranian barbeque on the beach). Took a 7 hour ferry into Indonesia..we jumped
straight onto a mini bus for a 12 hour journey into the next day, began hitchiking early that morning. We travelled 30 hours non-stop the first leg...that wasn't even the longest stint.

Green fields, chopped forests and small villages of Sumatra flew by as we hitched south towards Java. Many trucks and many smiling faces we passed. We learned a fair bit of Bahasa Indonesia from truckers and people along the way and soon enough we were writing songs..

We travelled day and night, trucks in the day, buses at night. One night we
stopped with a truck on Muko Muko beach.

A huge black storm was brewing over the ocean. In a gusty tarpaulin shack set up to serve strong coffee and hot noodles to weary truck drivers, living there were two of the sweetest little monkey boys I have ever met.

It was pure joy to play with those boys. Bliss. The storm burst and the lightning brought brilliant clarity to the dark sea for a second, sending the whole world into blackness. We slept on rough wooden tables in bliss with my arms wrapped around a thin brown child.

We met a cool crew of musos in BENGKULU on the coast. The Fuzzy crew welcomed us into their home (and music studio) and we jammed the night away with coffee and songs..

Now in JOGJA, the graffiti city, where they say 60% of the population are artist we've hooked up with a bunch of artists and Indo musicians..country style house with ducks and goats..ah, it's nice..

We're taking it slow and spending a bit of time getting to know Jogja. I'm looking forward to a few days on the farm. I'm hoping to gain a few weaving and bag making skills to sell crafts at markets.

Ah, nice city, nice boys..I'm in the middle of a butterfly lantern to hang for the exhibition. I have a warm coffee, a bamboo bed waiting for me..

Man, I've never had it so good!